Published: November 05, 2009 11:40 pm      

When the Natchez Trace reigned supreme

The Natchez Trace is a Mississippi treasure and a National treasure as well, plus, a portion of The Trace is located near our part of east central Mississippi. Yes, just a drive of about one hour to French Camp, MS from Meridian, MS will take one onto the superhighway of its era. Only one hour for most Mississippians, but travelers come from around the world to enjoy the quiet beauty of The Trace which is now commemorated by the 444-mile-long Natchez Trace Parkway – extending from Natchez to Nashville.

As Mississippians, most are familiar with The Natchez Trace, and the great significance it played as a historic trade and transit route, but for “new” Mississippians (I know you got here as quick as you could!) or “none” Mississippians (I can't even imagine that!), allow me to detail a little history lesson.

Explorers and historians estimate the timeworn path could be over 8,000 years old. It largely followed a geologic ridge line and allowed prehistoric animals to follow the dry ground between the salt licks of central Tennessee to the grazing lands southward. Later it became a traditional Native American trail as they foraged for bison, deer, and large game. It was concluded by historians that the large game would break paths through the undergrowth and later Native Americans would blaze the trail further.   The first recorded European explorer to travel The Trace in its entirety was an unnamed Frenchman in 1742. He wrote of the trail and its “miserable conditions” – also, famed Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto may have traveled The Trace as well. Early explorers depended on the assistance of Native Americans, especially the Choctaw and Chickasaw. These tribes and others, collectively known as Mississippian, had long used The Trace for trade between themselves.

Isn't this exciting!  There is so much monumental history located right at our backdoor! Please read on as I bring The Trace into our world of today.

By 1800, Thomas Jefferson took an interest in expanding The Trace. He designated a post road built. The heaviest use of The Trace was from 1800 to 1825 by men, known as “Kaintucks,” who floated down the Ohio to Mississippi rivers and returned north on foot.  There were many others among this group during this time and earlier times as well. They include Native Americans, traders, trappers, missionaries, bandits, slaves, soldiers, settlers, circuit preachers, plus others. With the signing of treaties with the Chickasaw and Choctaw tribes and the U.S. government, the United States Army began blazing the trail. It was major work to prepare it as a thoroughfare. By 1809, The Trace was fully navigable by wagon. Early Mississippi settlements developed along The Trace. Some of them were Washington, the old capital of Mississippi, “old Greenville”, and Port Gibson. With the development of the Jackson’s Military Road, and steamboat travel, The Trace became obsolete.  By 1830, The Trace was officially abandoned and began to disappear back into the wilderness.

One of the greatest mysteries of The Trace was the death of Meriwether Lewis, of the Lewis and Clark Expedition fame. It was assumed that he took his own life, but rumors spread that it was murder. It was reported that Lewis was distraught over the state of his financial affairs, disappointment from jilted loves, frustrated from editing his journals, and unsatisfied with his position as governor of the Louisiana Territory. He was found dead at Grinder’s Stand located on The Trace near current-day Hohenwald, TN.

Yes, The Trace was a dangerous place, but at the same time the United States would not have developed in a timely manner without this pathway that brought traders and settlers to the “new frontier” of Mississippi, Louisiana, and Tennessee. The fearful nickname, “Devil’s Backbone” made travelers cautious; therefore, it became necessary to travel in large numbers for the sake of safety.

Today travelers and visitors travel and enjoy The Trace’s rich wildlife and scenery without fear. Crimson clover, butterweed, Japanese honeysuckle and ground ivy are just a few of about 100 species of wildflowers to be found along The Natchez Trace Parkway at different times of the year. There are numerous hiking trails, exhibits, picnic sites, campgrounds, and water recreation areas located on either side of the Parkway. Some of the trails are:

1. Rocky Springs Trail (about 30 miles southwest of Jackson, MS) offers 10 miles of trail from the Utica-Regantown Rd. to the Owen Creek pull off.

2. Tupelo Trail (runs from Beech Springs across from the visitor center to West Jackson Street in Tupelo, MS) – six miles in length.

3. Ridgeland Trail (north of Jackson, MS) is 24 miles in length.

 

And the best part – The Trace runs the entire state of Mississippi in a diagonal line – The Trace edges out of Tennessee into the northeast corner of Mississippi and runs to the southwest corner of our state.

So, dear readers, as you enjoy this column today, I am “riding the Trace.” I can't wait to breathe the same air and walk the same pathway of the early settlers, the circuit riding preachers, the runaway slaves, and the Native American tribes of the Choctaw and Chickasaw nations – Oh, yes, the bandits and highwayman, too. I'll close my eyes (my husband is the driver – Uh-huh) and imagine the wonderful time of a new nation, a new hope, and all of the brave souls seeking freedom and a new life.

It's My Mississippi – It's Your Mississippi … Let us travel our state and keep those tourist dollars at home. See you on The Trace!

 

Anne McKee is an author and storyteller. She lives in Meridian. Anne is listed on the Mississippi Artist Roster, sponsored by Mississippi Arts Commission, as a dramatic and literary artist, storyteller, and as a Teaching Artist. She is active with the arts and educational communities throughout Mississippi.